SUNDSVALL-HÄRNOSAND STATION!

SUNDSVALL-HÄRNOSAND STATION! por Victor Spanish, followed by Aisha English

La larga marcha hacia el norte comenzo, como siempre, en Malmö.
O mas bien en Lila Bedinge, punto de entrada a Suecia, despues de la movida por Holanda. Desde alli, desde nuestro cuartel general para Escandinavia, que es en realidad la casa de Inger,nuestra agente, muy cerca del punto mas austral de Suecia, la primer escala era Sundsvall, y hacia alla fuimos.
Otra vez los trenes suecos Malmö-Estocolmo y Estocolmo –Sundsvall, pero, por muy suecos que sean, la naturaleza esta vez los jodio: Habia llovido tanto en la zona central de lagos que se desbordaron y se taparon parte de las vias. O sea que a mitad de camino, debimos abandonar el tren, hacer 100 km. en autobus, y volver al tren. Claro que a problemas suecos soluciones suecas. Los autobuses eran de primera, ordenadamente en fila esperando el tren, empleados que te subian los equipajes amable y eficazmente, y la verdad que la molestia fue minima. Como esto demoro el arribo a Estocolmo, perdimos el segundo tren, y nos lo cambiaron por otro mas tarde, y nos dieron unos modestos ( pero salvadores) vouchers para comer algo en la estacion mientras esperamos. Buena ocasion para comprar "El Pais".
Finalmente arribamos a Sunsvall, luego de 9 horas de tren.

Sundsvall es una ciudad del centro- este de Suecia, en el condado de Västernorrland, en un entrante del golfo de Botnia, próximo a la desembocadura del río Ljungan.Es puerto marítimo, así como un próspero centro industrial. Su actividad económica se centra en la fabricación de celulosa, aluminio y productos metalúrgicos, pero el eje de la movida industrial es el papel, o mejor dicho la pasta base de celulosa. ( otra vez me viene a la memoria Gualeguaychu y todos los quilombos ) Aca vuelvo a insistir: El agua alrededor de las plantas de pasta base de celulosa esta impecable, pero debo reconocer que algunos dias hay baranda a podrido cerca de las plantas.
Ya me imagino el quilombo que se va a armar en Gualeguaychu el primer dia que haya ese olor.Este asentamiento quedó legalmente constituido en 1621. Más tarde, a finales del siglo XIX, creció como eje de una importante industria maderera. En 1888 la mayor parte del centro de la ciudad quedó destruida a consecuencia de un incendio, aunque se reconstruyó durante la década de 1890. En la actualidad, Sundsvall es una ciudad moderna con una gran proporción de empresas de alta tecnología. Las escuelas de Sundsvall se están reconvirtiendo rápidamente. La educación superior ofrece una amplia gama de estudios en una variedad de disciplinas, mientras que la universidad de MidSweden es una de las universidades con mayor crecimiento de Escandinavia.

En realidad, mas que toda esta charlanga geografica, nos interesaba que aca funciona una asociacion tanguera, y nos contrataron para dar unas clases grupales, el viernes por la noche, que fue muy exitoso. Luego de ella, nos alojaron en una casa en la ladera de la montana, desde la cual se domina todo el valle y la ciudad. Espectacular. La casa ha sido disenada y construida por Kurt Åke, nuestro anfitrion, y su mujer Anika, una bella sueca que vivio muchos anos en Uruguay, por lo que habla perfecto espanol. ( zafe)
Al dia siguiente, ellos nos llevaron en su auto a Härnösand, a 50 km. de alli, nuestro proximo destino. Cada una de estas movidas en en direccion sur-norte, por lo que cada vez mas nos acercamos al polo norte, o mejor dicho al circulo polar artico.
La zona de Härnösand es otra maravilla de la naturaleza, al punto que la Unesco la declaro patrimonio de la humanidad y zona protegida. Y el motivo es geologico. Resulta que en la ultima glaciacion, esta zona estuvo cubierta por una capa de hielo de 3 km. de espesor, ( si, tres Km. !) Ese monstruoso peso comprimio y hundio el terreno casi 800 metros. Al derretirse todo ese hielo, la tierra se libero del peso y empezo a subir de vuelta, al principio mas rapidamente, y hoy, miles de anos despues, mas lentamente, pero sigue subiendo. Eso modifica poco a poco el paisaje, de islas, fiordos, valles, etc. Asi me la contaron. Lo cierto es que la zona es bellisima, y uno de los inmensos rios que llegan al mar, es cruzado por un Puente colgante muy similar al Golden Gate de San Francisco.

Pues bien, aqui en Härnösand hemos dado dos clases muy concurridas, y al noche gran milonga gran con show incluido. Buen trabajo y buena plata, asi da gusto. Nos alojaron aqui en casa de otro Åke, esta vez Erikson de apellido, mas sueco imposible, que vive en las afueras, en un pueblito que se llama ( en sueco) literalmente " Al lado del Lago" y que esta a orillas de un enorme y maravilloso lago, obviamente.

La hermosura de la casa y su emplazamiento es de tarjeta postal. Muy parecido a algunos lagos de la Patagonia, increiblemente sereno, frio y profundo. La tentacion de banarse es enorme, y la casa esta a la orilla, asi que alla fui. Metes una gamba en el agua y la sacas azul, de lo frio que es. Seis meses por ano esta congelado, y la gente patina, pesca a traves de agujeros, cruza en auto por el lago, cubierto por una capa de hielo de 50 cm. de espesor. Pero ahora en verano, te podes meter, si sos macho!, es para cagarse de frio! Mi sesion de natacion duro 30 segundos.
La region tuvo un increible golpe de mala leche hace 20 anos. Resulta que la catastrofe nuclear de Chernobyl, ocurrida en Ucrania, a miles de km. de distancia, los jodio. Ocurrio que en los dias del desastre, el viento llevo gran parte de la nube radioactive hacia aqui, y una inoportuna lluvia derramo sobre este tierra encantada, ese veneno atomico. Las consecuencias en ese momento fueron graves: peces, mamiferos y vegetales mostraban indices de contaminacion radioactive 500 veces superiores a las tolerables. La paranoia fue inmediata y general, se tiraron miles de litros de leche, nadie pesco nada por anos, y ni una lechuga de la zona se podia vender o comer. La situacion se agravo con el paso del tiempo durante 5 anos, los indices seguian subiendo. Finalmente se estabilizo y empezo a bajar. Hoy ya no queda nada de esa historia, pero la gente sigue con resistencia a comer peces de aca, por eso los traen de otras partes de Suecia.

De a poco la naturaleza va reparando las cagadas que hacen los hombres. Por suerte esa zona afectada fue pequena, pero es justamente donde estamos ahora. Nuestro anfitrion Åke es proyectista de molinos de viento y experto en parques eolicos, y me dio algunos datos sorprendentes, cuando no increibles.
Cualquiera que haya viajado por rutas de Europa ha visto el paisje decorado con los modernos molinos de viento. De tres palas, blancos, y arriba de una columna metalica que lo sostiene.Parecen un molinito de juguete. Pues bien: los disenos de ultima generacion tienen estas increibles cifras:

-La torre tiene 100 metros de altura, es conica.

-En la base mide 4 metros de diametro y en la cima 2.
Esta hecha de chapa de acero de 50 mm. De espesor ( dos pulgadas) y pesa 400 toneladas!

-Las palas miden cada una 45 metros de largo, son de fibra de vidrio reforzada, o sea que el diametro del rotor es de 90 metros!

-Cada pala se regula automaticamente , controlada por computadora, de acuerdo a la fuerza del viento, y por supuesto todo el sistema gira para ponerse siempre de frente al viento. La velocidad a la que gira tambien esta controlada. Semejante descontrol tecnologico y material tiene un costo enorme: tres millones de euros cada uno.
Y aca viene lo increible: la empresa que los construye, y los paga, necesita 14 anos con el Molino generando energia electrica para recuperar la inversion, y recien despues empieza a ganar guita. Se supone que la vida util del Molino es de 25 anos, por lo que quedan 11 anos para encanutar. Yo no pondria guita en un negocio que dentro de 14 anos empezara a darme beneficios, pero parece que los empresarios suecos si.

Bueno, despues de Harnosand, donde ganamos buena guita, tuvimos una fiesta de despedida, comimos el major salmon y bajamos una birras de lujo, tomamos un bus hacia el proximo destino, siempre hacia el norte: Piteä

AISHA's VISION

Sundsvall was just a mysterious big spot on the map, in the remote northern area of Sweden, before it materialized one sunny afternoon. I still do not know why the southerners, Sköne people talk about the north in terms of cold, mosquitoes, schnapslieder and drinking. We were to find your ourselves about the Norrlandiger and it was the most exiting exploration! At the same time being tango missionaries we were ready for anything: even teach tango to a moose!
When we arrive to Sundvall on a beautiful Thursday afternoon and a very comfortable train journey ( omitting the fact of the floods which inundated railways too and we were obliged to descent from the train, take a bus and back to train again: everything done with Swedish perfect organisation)
We have only heard about Sundvall from the mouth of our Sköne tango student, who did not talk very highly neither about the place, nor its inhabitants. He called them ‘ yu’ people, for the only sound they utter as an answer when you are talking to them. Apart from that we heard from this very person complains about the high taxes southern Swedish pay in order to construct endless roads and highways in the wilderness of the north… He also mentioned mosquitoes, the very nasty kind of them, called ‘ knots’. But when asked how frequently he visits Sundvall and Norrland, he answered ‘ I have never been there’ ! This explains everything. Most southerners HAVE NEVER BEEN THAT UP NORTH AS WE WERE GOING TO BE! The Sköne people were envious of our itinerary and the desire to explore Sweden. The magical, mysterious part of Sweden. And imagine how excited we were! Midnightsun and wild animals, nature and few inhabitants, land of lakes and rivers…

When we arrived to Sundsvall on this lazy Thursday afternoon, the day seemed to slow down even more… The sun was shining – in contrast to Malmö, which we have left with rain and heavy clouds, and there arrived, all shiny happy our dearest students we knew from SOLLEFTEA: Kurt Åke and Anike! Both of them deserve a good chapter on its own, being one of those special characters we meet on our tango road. He is Swedish, but loves dancing and singing in a latin way, he only needs a bit of time and wine to be the jolly center of the social gathering. He constructed on his own a house on the hill, the house an architect would not be ashamed of ( Victor kept doubting whether a professional architect was not giving a helping hand, but Åke denied) From the very house- our short residence, we had Sundsvall at our feet: we loved our house on the hill! I was especially fond of interior design.

Going to the bathroom was like entering a temple. It was an aesthetical pleasure to spend time there ( bathing time, nail polishing time, make up time, meditation time).

I especially like one Swedish Pagan God ( a Faun?) keeping an eye on the candle and blowing it off when the time was right...

The weather made it possible to have my yoga on the terrace outside and the breakfasts and lunches with the view of Sundsvall as well.
Anika is a good spirit of the place. She is a real queen of this castle, BUT SHE DOES NOT LIVE THERE, she is like a muse-comes and inspires. Apart from that, she is a good Spanish speaker, having lived for years in Uruguay, her Latin chapter of live.Åke and Anika kidnapped us straight from the railway station to the WELCOME PARTY! Of course, it was a garden party as the weather was so favourable. There we could meet some more Norrlandiger, eat and drink wines and liquors, sing schapslider and listen to Norrland stories. There was even a Havana cigar for me!

THEY ARE VERY CIVILISED, THE NORRLANDIGER! Most of them have already heard about our great deed of eating surströming, by which we evoke a lot of admiration. And we are welcome to Norrland immediately!

And then we learnt what it means to be in a midnightsun period: we arrived home after midnight, very bright indeed, and Åke offered his sauna. The procedure was like that: spending 10 -15 minutes in a hot sauna-a little wooden house beside ‘ the castle’ and going out to sit outside, on the terrace admiring views of Sudnsval down below, sipping juices, some men I will not mention here, even beer, and then back to sauna again. The session ended after 2 a.m. still very bright, and one would never guess it was a bedtime! ONLY a voice of reason sent us to bed: we were to wake up early to be driven to our next destination: Härnosand!

Our entrance to Härnosand was a triumphal one. I belive Åke and Anika wanted us to feel like the kings entering the beloved city. They did not reveal us anything, apart from having to get up and leave the house 1 hour earlier that planned. They drove us to a beautiful spot by the river- or the sea? ( it is always a game we play ‘ is it a river, a sea, a vijk, a fjord? When we see the water) a Hansel and Gretel house of Anika’s father. We supposed we were to be presented and I was quite surprised to have Anika’s dad

putting a saftly jacket on me. Was it suppose to be a joke? Then I noticed a yacht and a couple of boats by the river and we were both pushed in the direction. Me, Victor, Åke and Anika found ourselves in a boat. Where are we going? I asked? TO dance tango! To your workshops!they answered laughing. But all my stuff, the shoes etc were in the car! However they made us trust and I thought maybe we had time for a little trip round the river. But it was not a trip- we passed the wilde shore with some charming houses situated on both banks and soon after 10 minutes the landscape got more and more civilised and we found ourselves in a city! Passed some bridges and disembarked in a nice promenade-restaurant area. We wanted you to see some of Härnosand! You will be so busy during those days, that we suppose you might leave without any sightseeing! We wanted to give you surprise boat entrance to Hårnosand- your workhops are a couple of minutes from here! they were explaining. I still did not understand how the hell will I give the workshops without my dancing shoes, but there I see.. our car with the stuff! They had it perfectly and secretly organized! Anika’s dad drove the car to meet us in the city and he would go home by boat himself! I love this sort of surprises!
The workshops were fun: our new students were joined by those who are already a family: Solleftea and Sundsvall students came as well!

The tango mayor domo of Härnosand is Åke ( Eriksson). He is perfectly Swedish ( perfect organisation, planning, punctuality and reception of the guests and even weather!) but when it comes to dance he becomes a Latino at least! It is absolutely amazing how this serious respectable gentelment becomes ' dance crazy'! I can testify myself, I have had an honour to be asked to dance foxtrot with him! That

was unforgettable! And I think we must have made quite a spectacle, another one, after my tango show with Victor! Now I am becoming a Swedish folk dancer myself!

I can name the following Swedish folk dances:

foxtrot ( which I tried with Åke)

bugg ( which was performed for us by our Härnösand tango students)

Hambo, Schottis, Polska

and.. Åke's dance!He is famous for it in Norrland!

Another surprise was our new residence while in Härnosand. We were not suppose to stay in town itself, but inUtansjö, which means ' a place by the river', in a wanderful lake house of Åke! If I was to choose a honeymoon destination, or a retreat spot to meditate, I would definitely choose that house! Spacious wooden house with the terrace just on the river. Private beach, no neighbours or houses in view, only the nature with the gentle GOLDEN LIGHT OF THE NEVERSETTING SUN! If I was to compare, only a glorious word of PATAGONIA comes to my mind...When Åke brought us there for a short shower-nibble-swimm and getting ready for the show&milonga, I felt I could not move out of there at all! I was glued to the stone I was sitting on!
Maybe the magic...

The magic was broken by the surströmming smell! But there was no surströmming around at all! This time Åke played a trick on us and offered us the cheese, but not a normal cheese, but SURSTRÖMMINGSOST!Anybody in Sweden had this cheese before? NO? I think we must be one of the first guinea pigs for the SURSTRÖMMING ACADEMY, founded up there in Norrland. Åke told us about it; now they produce the cheese and want to develop other surströmming products... WE HAVE EATEN THE CHEESE!

But the show must go on and it went on...There was not only Aisha & Victor tango show, but the Norrland beauties converted into the models displayed the Argentinean tango fashion. They added a lot of colour to the Swedish landscape! It is more: Norrland ladies are not afraid of high heels, neither they are of sensual cloth! They are real tango queens! First Schaps on their health and beauty! Helan går!

Another great experience in Härnösand was a tango day in FÄBOD, of the village Ramsås. Fäbod was orginally where the cattle from the village was taken for the summer, together with a caretaker. Full of huts, it is like ' little people' s dwelling place! All in miniature! And of course, all situated round the lake! Even the weather was specially ordered! LONG LIVE SVERIGE!

There was eating and drinking and guided tour round fäbod, and it even went to singing and more drinking and more singing. That was the time when we fell in love with the Taube's Carmencita... Imagine the scene: a group of great swedish singers singing it outside, in the forest, with the lake witnessing, the singing going from the hearts and in a good company...

We even had our good old siesta, lying on the soft forest moss, with a lullaby of the sad tunes of old swedish folk songs...

And who has ever seen tango in fäbod without tango?!

Needless to say, after all the eating, drinking, siesting and singing we went to dance tango! There was a special spot by the lake, built for this very purpose, because the owners of this fäbod are tangueros.

They have explained the are constantly improving the floor and next year it is going to be much bigger and better quality dance floor!Here we are- the surviver couples dancing tango just over the lake! The Sundsval-Härnösand people never get enough! It was Victor who said finally: enough of tango- legions retreat home!

Härnösand area would not be in the WORLD HERITAGE PLACE LIST if it was not for the ice age. An enormous block of ice ( 3 km thickness) pushed the land way down to 800m below! But when it melted, the land started to increase and it keeps rising even now, 1 cm every year! It means- ever changing landscapes, hills and cliffs, rocks erasing from the sea, labirynth of rivers, fjors and lakes. In one word: landscape of the enourmous beauty, the HÖGA KUSTEN ( high coast literary)

And this beauty was offered for us on a plate, by our guide Åke, who took us for the magic ride in his car: Victor could see and explore the works of wind mills, of which ÅKe is an expert, and both of us could look down on the impressive bridge, reminding Golden Gate, ruling over the landscape of river, islands and hills...This postcard -like photo was taken after midnight..